In the world of wristwatches, few designs carry the weight of history like the British field watch from World War II. These tough timepieces were built for soldiers facing real battles, and today, one brand is bringing that legacy back in a way that's hard to ignore. The Vertex M36 stands out as a compact nod to those originals, blending old-school grit with just enough modern tweaks to make it a daily wearer for guys who appreciate straightforward reliability.
Back during the thick of World War II, over 80 years ago, the British Ministry of Defence realized their troops needed better watches than the patched-together civilian models they'd been using. Most British watch companies were busy making war supplies, so the MoD sent a spec sheet to Switzerland's top makers, who were neutral and still operating. The requirements were clear: a black dial, a small seconds subdial, luminous hands and markers, a sturdy acrylic crystal, and some water resistance to handle the elements.
Twelve companies stepped up: Lemania, Omega, Buren, Timor, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Record, Cyma, Longines, IWC, Grana, Eterna, and Vertex. Interestingly, Vertex was the only British outfit among them, but their production happened in Switzerland, letting them dodge the wartime shutdowns that hit other UK brands. Together, these makers produced a single design under the W.W.W. label—standing for Watch, Wrist, Waterproof—in limited runs over a few years. That scarcity turned them into collector's gold, with some brands like Omega and IWC still household names, while others faded into obscurity.
Vertex might have joined the forgotten ones if not for a family revival. In 2015, Don Cochrane, the great-grandson of the brand's founder Claude Lyons, brought it back from the dead. Their comeback started strong in 2017 with the M100, a 40mm tribute to Vertex's original Dirty Dozen piece. It captured the essence but sized up for today's tastes.
Then came 2024, and Vertex dropped the M36—a watch that's less a loose homage and more a near-exact recreation of the Dirty Dozen field watch, dialed back to the original 36mm size. It's got a few updates for modern life, but it stays true to the roots. One reviewer snagged his in May 2024, heading straight to the Vertex boutique in London for pickup. Don Cochrane himself showed him around the cozy spot, making the experience feel personal and tied to the brand's story. After wearing it through a UK trip and the following 18 months—hitting streets, boats, bars, woods, and offices—the piece proved its worth.
Let's break down what makes the M36 tick. The case measures 36mm across, crafted from brushed stainless steel for that understated toughness. It stretches 46.5mm from lug to lug, keeping it balanced on most wrists without overwhelming. Thickness hits 11mm, though the double-domed sapphire crystal adds about another millimeter, giving it a subtle dome that catches the light just right. That crystal comes with anti-reflective coating to cut glare, a smart touch for everyday use.
The dial sticks close to the original: matte black for no distractions, with a railroad minute track and luminous hour markers. Where it modernizes is swapping the printed Arabic numerals for Vertex's signature 3D versions, molded from luminous material that glows like a beacon. The hands are polished steel, filled with Super-LumiNova for easy reading in low light. Up top, a screw-down crown boosts water resistance to 100 meters—plenty for rain, swims, or whatever life throws at you. The solid steel caseback screws on tight and features that classic W.W.W. engraving, a direct callback to the military specs.
Inside, it's powered by the Sellita SW260-1, an automatic movement that's a small-seconds version of the reliable SW200. It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour, holds a 38-hour power reserve, and packs 31 jewels. Compare that to the MoD's original call for just 15 jewels, and you see how far watch tech has come in eight decades—smoother, more precise, built to last without fuss.
Vertex doesn't skimp on options for wearing it. The M36 comes with three straps: a sand-colored "over-under" NATO for that rugged field vibe, a leather NATO for a bit more class, and a stretchy expandable steel bracelet that feels vintage but wears smooth. That bracelet avoids the common pitfall of pinching arm hairs, somehow nailing comfort right out of the box.
On the wrist, this watch embodies what a field watch should be: simple, purposeful, no extras to complicate things. No rotating bezels, no pushers, no moon phases—just time, clear and quick. The 36mm size hits a sweet spot, feeling just right without trending toward the oversized monsters some brands push. Think about the Rolex Explorer sticking to 36mm for over 70 years (barring a brief detour into bigger sizes)—there's a reason classics endure. This one fits that mold, versatile enough for any setting, from casual outings to workdays.
Legibility is top-notch, as you'd expect from a tool watch bred for the battlefield. Those big numerals let you glance and go, and the Super-LumiNova is so bright it could light up a dark room. Imagine if the originals had this lume back in the day—it might have spooked a few enemies into thinking twice.
Sure, nothing's perfect. One small gripe from the reviewer: he'd have gone with a manual-wind movement to shave off a millimeter or two in thickness and stay even closer to the Dirty Dozen's hand-wound spirit. But that's personal taste, not a flaw in the design. Overall, the M36 draws you in with its clean symmetry—the kind of watch you catch yourself staring at throughout the day, even after months of ownership. It's got that hard-to-pin-down cool factor, mixing nostalgia with the satisfaction of wearing something connected to real history.
Vertex has nailed a recreation that honors the past without watering it down. It slots perfectly into their lineup, embracing heritage while delivering a piece that's become a go-to in collections. The honeymoon phase lingers, proving it's more than a novelty—it's a keeper. Available now from Vertex at GBP 2,150 including taxes, or roughly EUR 2,100 excluding them. Head to vertex-watches.com for the full scoop.
Technical rundown on the Vertex M36: 36mm diameter by 11mm thick, 46.5mm lug-to-lug, stainless steel case with brushed finish, double-domed sapphire box crystal with AR coating, solid steel screwed caseback, screw-in crown, and 100m water resistance. Matte black dial with railroad minute track, luminous hour markers, polished steel hands with Super-LumiNova, and 3D Arabic numerals in X1 grade C3 Super-LumiNova. Sellita SW260-1 Top Grade automatic movement, 31 jewels, 28,800 vph, 38-hour reserve, showing hours, minutes, and small seconds. 18mm lugs, comes with expandable metal strap, sand over-and-under NATO fabric, and leather over-and-under NATO. Part of the permanent collection, priced at GBP 2,150 incl. taxes or GBP 1,791 export excl. taxes.
This watch isn't just about telling time—it's a reminder of enduring designs that outlast trends, perfect for those who value pieces with stories behind them.
