When Seiko brought back the King Seiko Vanac earlier this year, it caught a lot of guys off guard. This sharp-edged sports watch from the 1970s made a comeback in March, looking pretty much like the original but without the old faceted crystal. It jumped right into the crowded field of integrated sports watches, going head-to-head with big names. The first version leaned hard on its roots from 1972, the same year the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak hit the scene, kicking off that whole style.
Up until now, every modern take on the Vanac stuck to bracelets. Seiko rolled out a few limited editions after the initial launch, all with that metal band setup. But things just shifted with the latest pair of models. For the first time since the line started back in the '70s, these watches come on leather straps that blend right into the case design. It's a move that changes the whole vibe.
Image credit: Seiko
These new ones carry the name "Tokyo Horizon," building on how past Vanacs drew from the city's skyline. This time, though, the inspiration comes from the woods surrounding Japan's biggest city. That nature angle explains the swap from the shiny, polished bracelet to these leather bands. The leather itself is eco-friendly, sourced from a tannery backed by the Leather Working Group, a group that pushes for better practices in making leather without harming the environment.
Even though the strap gives off that integrated look, it's not locked in place. It uses standard lugs and quick-release bars, so swapping it out is simple if you want. The catch is the odd 17mm width between the lugs—good luck finding an aftermarket strap that fits just right, especially one that matches the case's slanted edges. Still, that setup keeps things practical for everyday use.
One standout feature is the clasp. It's a deployant type without a keeper, meaning the end of the strap stays flat against your wrist instead of flopping around. That gives a sleeker profile on the outside, which is great for avoiding that messy tail some straps have. It's not something Seiko has done much before, making these feel fresh even for longtime fans of the brand.
Image credit: Seiko
Beyond the strap, the big tweak is in the dial colors, tying back to those forest roots. Pick from a brown dial matched to a brown leather strap or a dark green dial on black leather. Both keep the gold-tone markers and white details that show up on other Vanac models, adding a bit of flash without going overboard.
The rest stays true to form. The case measures 41mm across, built from stainless steel with all sorts of angles and mixed finishes that catch the light just right. There's a faceted ring around the dial, an anti-reflective coated box-shaped sapphire crystal up top, a screw-down crown for security, and it handles water up to 100 meters—solid for a watch you might wear out on the boat or in the rain without worry.
Under the hood, it's powered by Seiko's Caliber 8L45 automatic movement, the same one in the other Vanacs. This thing is derived from the Grand Seiko 96S5 caliber, and it's the most accurate regular mechanical movement Seiko puts out today. It runs at 4Hz, keeps time within +10 to -5 seconds a day, and holds a three-day power reserve, so you don't have to wind it every night. Plus, it's decorated nicely and visible through a sapphire case back, letting you check out the mechanics whenever you want.
Image credit: Seiko
For anyone who's eyed the Vanac but held off, this leather option might seal the deal. It tones down the sporty edge, making it more versatile for buttoned-up occasions or just mixing with casual outfits. Without the bracelet's gleam, the case's detailed finishing stands out more—edges sharpened, surfaces brushed or polished in ways that show Seiko's skill, rivaling what you'd get from their pricier Grand Seiko line.
On the price front, Seiko hasn't locked in U.S. numbers yet, but over in Europe, these are going for €3,300. That's €100 cheaper than the bracelet models there. With the dollar taking a hit lately—it dropped 10.7 percent in the first half of 2025, the roughest stretch in half a century, and folks are betting on another 5 percent slide soon—that converts to about $3,835 right now. But don't expect Seiko to slap that full amount on the U.S. tag. The current bracelet Vanac sells for $3,300, so if they mirror the European discount, these leather ones could land around $3,200. We'll get the official word soon, ahead of the January release.
This update keeps the Vanac line evolving without losing what made it special from the start. It's got that blend of old-school charm and modern reliability, perfect for guys who appreciate a watch that tells time accurately and holds up through the years. Whether you're into the history of these pieces or just want something tough and stylish on your wrist, the Tokyo Horizon models add a new layer to consider. Seiko's playing it smart here, giving options that fit different tastes while sticking to what works.
