For a lot of guys, the Rolex Explorer stands as the ultimate do-it-all watch. It’s tough enough for weekends in the woods, clean enough for the office, and built to last a lifetime. The problem? That lifetime-lasting quality comes with a price tag that starts around $7,500 and only goes up from there. Most working men look at that number and figure it’s going to stay on the wish list for a long time.
But every once in a while, something new shows up that makes you wonder if the real thing is still worth waiting for. That’s exactly what’s happening right now with a small Japanese company called Kiwame Tokyo and their latest release, the Iwao.
Image credit: Kiwame Tokyo
Kiwame Tokyo only started a few months ago, and this Iwao is just their second watch. Yet it already feels like they’ve hit on something special. The design takes clear inspiration from the Explorer—those familiar 3-6-9 Arabic numerals, the simple layout, the overall toughness—but it adds its own personality without ever feeling like a straight copy.
The version that catches the eye first is the Iwao Sumi, with its deep black dial. The center has a subtle grained texture that looks almost like rough rock, a quiet reminder that this watch is meant for real use outdoors. Around the edge sits a satin-brushed ring that gives the face a more dressed-up feel. Applied metal markers rise off that ring: faceted batons at most hours and bold Arabic numbers at 3, 6, 9, and 12. A small curved plaque below the 12 carries the brand name, while text at 6 o’clock proudly notes the automatic movement and 100 meters of water resistance—specs that line up nicely with what people love about Rolex tool watches.
Image credit: Kiwame Tokyo
The hands are a standout feature. They’re faceted, shaped almost like fence posts, filled with lume for low-light readability, and the seconds hand ends in a sharp red tip that adds just enough color to keep things interesting. A sloped minute track runs around the outer edge, and there’s a lumed triangle marker at 12 so you always know which way is up, even in the dark. A thin polished ring separates the main dial from the minute track, catching light in a way that gives the whole face more depth.
The case work shows real attention to detail for a watch in this price range. The bezel is brushed on top with a polished bevel that flows down into polished case sides, while the lug tops get the same mirror finish. That mix of brushed and polished surfaces gives the watch more presence on the wrist than most field-style pieces. At 38mm wide and only 9.5mm thick, the size hits a sweet spot—big enough to feel substantial, small enough to slide easily under a shirt cuff. Lug-to-lug measurement keeps it comfortable on average wrists.
Image credit: Kiwame Tokyo
Power comes from a Miyota Caliber 9039, a slim, reliable Japanese automatic movement that helps keep the case so thin. The crystal is sapphire with anti-reflective coating, and even though the crown doesn’t screw down, the watch still rates 100 meters of water resistance—plenty for anything short of serious diving. The only downside is that it ships on a black calf leather strap with no bracelet option for now.
There’s also a second version called the Iwao Ginkai that flips the script with a light silver-white dial and a heat-blued seconds hand. Rolex has never offered a light-dial Explorer, so this brighter option feels fresh and gives buyers a choice the original doesn’t.
Both versions carry the same retail price of $690. For that money, you’re getting a sapphire crystal, a quality automatic movement, solid water resistance, thoughtful finishing, and a design that looks far more expensive than it is. The watches are set to go on sale Christmas Day directly through Kiwame Tokyo’s website.
Image credit: Kiwame Tokyo
In a market flooded with homages and microbrand releases, the Iwao stands out because it doesn’t try too hard to be something it’s not. It takes the spirit of the classic Explorer—simple, rugged, versatile—and delivers it in a package that most guys can actually afford without years of saving or second-guessing.
Whether it truly measures up to the Rolex in long-term durability remains to be seen, but on paper and in photos, Kiwame Tokyo has built a compelling everyday watch that doesn’t force you to choose between quality and price. For a lot of enthusiasts who’ve admired the Explorer from afar, this could be the one that finally ends the wait.
