In the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking region, a young brand is making waves that could ripple through the industry for years to come. Berneron, founded by the visionary designer Sylvain Berneron in Neuchâtel, has already earned a reputation for bold innovation with its debut Mirage watches in 2023. Those timepieces, with their asymmetrical cases and full gold movements, sold out faster than a limited-edition bourbon at a collector’s convention. Now, Berneron is back with its second act: the Quantième Annuel, a platinum-cased annual calendar watch that blends cutting-edge mechanics with practical elegance. Unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2025, this watch is poised to redefine what a complicated timepiece can be.
A Bold Leap Forward
Unlike the Mirage, which turned heads with its unconventional, almost surreal design, the Quantième Annuel takes a more classical approach—at least on the surface. Its round, 38mm platinum case and clean dial layout give it a timeless look that could sit comfortably next to a Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne. But don’t be fooled by its traditional appearance. Beneath the polished exterior lies a mechanical marvel designed to tackle the frustrations of traditional calendar watches while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in modern watchmaking.
Image credit: Berneron
The Quantième Annuel is Berneron’s first foray into complicated watchmaking, and it’s a statement of intent. Sylvain Berneron, a former Breitling design chief with a background in automotive design for brands like BMW and Porsche, isn’t content to rest on the laurels of his debut success. He’s determined to prove that Berneron isn’t just the “Mirage guy” or a one-hit wonder. This new collection shows he’s playing the long game, aiming to build a brand that stands shoulder-to-shoulder with the giants of Swiss horology.
A Dial Designed for Clarity
The Quantième Annuel’s dial is a masterclass in thoughtful design. Unlike many annual calendar watches, where cramped displays can make reading the date feel like decoding a spreadsheet, Berneron’s approach is refreshingly intuitive. The time is read vertically, with a large jumping hour at 12 o’clock, a central minute hand, and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock. The calendar functions—day, date, and month—are arranged horizontally, creating a “cross architecture” that’s as logical as it is elegant. The day and month appear in large, legible apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock, while a retrograde date hand sweeps across the center, making it easy to read at a glance.
Image credit: Berneron
Available in two dial variants—lacquered black with silver-grey accents or silver with blue accents—the dials are crafted from solid 18k gold, a nod to Berneron’s commitment to using only the finest materials. The hands, also in 18k white gold, are designed for maximum legibility, ensuring that this watch isn’t just a technical achievement but a practical one. An AM/PM indicator, subtly offset near the small seconds, ties the time and date functions together, adding a touch of sophistication without cluttering the dial.
A Movement That Rewrites the Rules
At the heart of the Quantième Annuel is the proprietary Caliber 595, a manually wound movement that’s as innovative as it is ambitious. With 476 components and 33 jewels, it’s a far cry from the simpler 135-component movement of the Mirage. This new caliber, crafted entirely in 18k gold, powers four instantaneous jumping displays—hour, day, month, and AM/PM—along with a retrograde date. To achieve this, Berneron engineered a dual-barrel system that stores energy in four separate locations, ensuring smooth operation even during the complex midnight transition on December 31.
What sets the Caliber 595 apart is its user-friendly design. Traditional annual calendar watches can be a nightmare to set, with strict rules about when and how to adjust the date to avoid damaging the movement. Berneron eliminates this headache with a system that’s as intuitive as winding the watch itself. The time and date are set via the crown, just like a standard watch, while the day and month are adjusted using two large, finger-friendly pushers at 4 and 8 o’clock on the case. No stylus required, no forbidden time windows to worry about. Even better, a built-in safety mechanism prevents costly mistakes. For example, if you try to set the date to February 31, the watch automatically resets to March 1, saving you from a trip to the watchmaker.
Image credit: Berneron
With a 100-hour power reserve and a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the Caliber 595 is built for reliability as well as precision. Visible through the sapphire caseback, the movement is finished with meticulous attention to detail, featuring techniques like anglage, guillochage, cerclage, and black polishing. While some critics have noted that Berneron’s heavy Côtes de Genève finishing can be visually bold, the airy black-polished balance bridge adds a touch of elegance that’s hard to fault.
A Case Built to Last
The Quantième Annuel’s case is a triumph of both form and function. Measuring 38mm in diameter and just 10mm thick, it’s compact enough to wear comfortably on most wrists, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 45mm that ensures a balanced fit. Crafted primarily from Pt950 platinum, which makes up 85% of the case’s mass, it has a substantial heft that screams luxury. But platinum, while beautiful, is notoriously soft and prone to scratches. Berneron’s solution? A thin layer of 904L stainless steel, comprising 15% of the case’s mass, applied to high-wear areas like the bezel, lugs, and crown. These six steel components are modular and replaceable, meaning your watch can stay looking pristine without expensive refinishing.
The case also features a hinged “hunter” caseback, a nod to classic pocket watches, and 30 meters of water resistance, making it more than just a dress watch. Paired with a 20-16mm Barenia leather strap, the Quantième Annuel strikes a perfect balance between rugged durability and refined style.
Limited Production, Rising Prices
Berneron’s commitment to exclusivity is evident in its production strategy. The Quantième Annuel will be produced at a rate of 24 pieces per dial color per year, totaling 48 pieces annually, for a decade. That’s 480 watches in total, a number that ensures rarity without the “limited edition” label. The pricing reflects this exclusivity, starting at CHF 120,000 for 2026 deliveries, rising to CHF 130,000 in 2027, and CHF 140,000 in 2028. This tiered pricing rewards early adopters, a strategy Berneron also used with the Mirage, which saw prices climb from CHF 44,000 to CHF 65,000 over a few years.
While CHF 120,000 is a significant investment—higher than comparable annual calendars from established brands like Patek Philippe or A. Lange & Söhne—it’s justified by the watch’s originality and small-scale production. With a reported CHF 1.7 million invested in the Caliber 595’s development, Berneron isn’t cutting corners. The result is a watch that feels like a collector’s piece from the moment you strap it on.
A Brand with a Vision
Sylvain Berneron’s journey to this point is as compelling as the watch itself. Before founding his eponymous brand, he honed his craft as a designer for BMW, Porsche, and Ducati, bringing an outsider’s perspective to the conservative world of watchmaking. His tenure as Breitling’s Chief Product Officer saw him revitalize the brand’s portfolio, but the constraints of a large company pushed him to strike out on his own. Financed entirely from his own savings, Berneron launched his brand in 2022 with a clear mission: to create timepieces that combine technical excellence with unbridled creativity.
The Quantième Annuel is a testament to that vision. It’s not just a watch; it’s a statement about what watchmaking can be when it prioritizes the wearer’s experience. By addressing common pain points—like difficult settings and fragile cases—Berneron has created a timepiece that’s as practical as it is luxurious. And with plans for a new collection every year through 2035, including eight more proprietary calibers, Berneron is clearly in it for the long haul.
Why It Matters
For collectors, the Quantième Annuel is more than just a beautiful watch. It’s a chance to own a piece of a brand that’s rewriting the rules of high-end horology. The Mirage proved that Berneron could capture the imagination of the watch world; the Quantième Annuel shows he can compete with the best in the business. Its innovative movement, user-friendly design, and meticulous craftsmanship make it a standout in a crowded field of calendar watches.
With deliveries set to begin in October 2026, demand is already high. Influential collectors are lining up, and half of the first year’s production is reportedly allocated. For those who appreciate the blend of tradition and innovation, the Quantième Annuel is a watch worth waiting for. It’s a reminder that in an industry often bound by convention, a bold new voice can still make a difference.
The Verdict
The Berneron Quantième Annuel is a watch that demands attention. Its platinum case, gold movement, and intuitive annual calendar make it a technical and aesthetic triumph. While its price puts it in the same league as established luxury brands, its originality and craftsmanship set it apart. For those who value exclusivity, innovation, and a story worth telling, this watch is a worthy addition to any collection. As Berneron continues to push the boundaries of what’s possible, the Quantième Annuel might just be the start of something truly special.
