For decades, watch enthusiasts have looked to the British Royal Navy as the gold standard for military-issued dive watches. The service made history by selecting some of the most coveted timepieces ever produced, including the Omega Seamaster 300 "Big Triangle" in the late 1960s and the legendary Rolex MilSub throughout the 1970s. Earlier Rolex Submariners also found their way onto the wrists of British sailors in the 1950s and early 1960s.
But 1980 marked a turning point. The UK's Ministry of Defence shifted away from expensive Swiss manufacturers and placed its trust in a small British company called Cabot Watch Company, known simply as CWC. The decision reflected a practical approach to military procurement without sacrificing quality or capability.
Image credit: CWC
CWC started its military contract by producing an automatic dive watch that bore a striking resemblance to the Seamaster 300. This wasn't coincidental—both watches were built to meet the same military specifications. The automatic version served for two years before CWC switched to a quartz-powered model in 1982, a move that reduced maintenance requirements and improved reliability in the field.
The partnership between CWC and British military forces has endured for over four decades. Today, these watches represent iconic symbols of the British Armed Forces. Beyond military contracts, CWC has expanded its offerings to include civilian versions ranging from faithful reissues of vintage military models to updated designs that incorporate modern watchmaking advances.
The company has now introduced another option for collectors and enthusiasts with an automatic diver featuring a distinctive white dial designed to evoke Arctic operations.
A New Take on Tradition
CWC first introduced its "Arctic Radar" color scheme in 2024 with the classic Quartz Diver. The concept was straightforward—take the proven military design and replace the standard black dial with white. The response was positive enough that CWC decided to extend the treatment to its Automatic Diver line.
The Arctic Radar Automatic Diver maintains the rugged construction expected from a military-grade timepiece. The stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and 47mm from top to bottom, dimensions that balance wearability with presence on the wrist. Prominent crown guards protect the winding mechanism from impacts, while fixed bars reminiscent of the Rolex MilSub add to the tool watch aesthetic.
Water resistance reaches 300 meters, achieved through a screw-down crown and caseback construction. This depth rating exceeds the requirements for most recreational diving and matches the specifications of many professional dive watches.
Design Details and Functionality
The dial layout follows the established Seamaster 300 format but with a color reversal that creates high contrast. A 120-click unidirectional bezel surrounds the dial with full minute markings. The raised Super-LumiNova hour markers are outlined in black, improving legibility against the white background. The hands are also filled with luminous material and coated in black for maximum contrast.
According to the manufacturer's description, dial markings remain minimal. CWC's logo sits below the 12 o'clock position, with the letter "L" inside a circle underneath—a military designation indicating the luminous material is non-radioactive LumiNova. The broad arrow symbol, traditionally used to mark government property on British military equipment, appears below the handset. "Swiss Made" is printed below 6 o'clock.
One notable absence from this design is the minute track. Other CWC dive watches feature prominent minute markers between the hour indices, similar to the Seamaster 300. These markings are completely omitted on the Arctic Radar model. The reasoning behind this choice remains unclear, but the result is a cleaner, if somewhat less functional, dial face. The lack of minute increments reduces the watch's ability to perform precise timing tasks.
Despite this omission, the overall appearance is clean and purposeful, particularly when paired with the black PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) case option. The watch is available in both bare stainless steel and black PVD finishes.
Movement and Construction
Inside the case ticks a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, described as a top-grade caliber. Sellita movements are Swiss-made and widely respected in the watch industry for reliability and serviceability. The SW200-1 specifically is a workhorse movement found in many mid-range automatic watches.
The movement sits behind a solid caseback with no display window, following traditional military watch design principles that prioritize durability over aesthetics. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, offering superior scratch resistance compared to mineral or acrylic alternatives.
Available Configurations
CWC offers the Arctic Radar Automatic Diver on NATO-style fabric straps that complement each case finish. The stainless steel version comes with a gray NATO strap featuring matching metal hardware. The black PVD case pairs with a black NATO strap and black hardware for a monochromatic look.
Interestingly, both versions carry identical pricing on CWC's website—£1,332.50, which converts to approximately $1,824 before any applicable import duties or tariffs. This pricing strategy is unusual in the watch industry, where PVD-coated versions typically command a premium over standard steel models due to the additional manufacturing process involved.
Military Heritage Meets Civilian Market
The Arctic Radar represents CWC's continued effort to bridge military functionality with civilian appeal. The white dial creates a visual connection to Arctic and cold-weather operations, though the watch remains fully capable in any environment within its specifications.
For enthusiasts interested in military-specification watches without the premium attached to vintage Rolex or Omega pieces, CWC offers an authentic alternative with direct lineage to current military service. These watches aren't reproductions or homages—they're built by the same manufacturer supplying actual military units.
The automatic movement adds appeal for those who prefer mechanical watches over quartz alternatives. While quartz movements offer superior accuracy and lower maintenance, automatic movements provide a traditional watchmaking experience and eliminate battery replacements.
The 41mm case size hits a sweet spot for diverse wrist sizes. It's substantial enough to make a statement without overwhelming smaller wrists, and it maintains proportions that work under shirt cuffs for those who need to wear their watches in professional settings.
Practical Considerations
Beyond specifications and heritage, the Arctic Radar functions as a daily-wear tool watch. The 300-meter water resistance exceeds requirements for swimming, showering, and recreational diving. The sapphire crystal resists scratching from daily wear, while the NATO strap allows for quick swaps to match different situations or personal preferences.
The unidirectional bezel serves its traditional purpose of tracking elapsed time during dives or other timed activities. The 120-click action provides more precise timing than the standard 60-click bezels found on many dive watches.
Luminous material on the hands and markers ensures readability in low-light conditions. The black-outlined markers and black-coated hands against the white dial create strong contrast for quick time-telling, though the missing minute track remains a puzzling omission for precision timing tasks.
The watch ships with clear connections to its military roots—the broad arrow and non-radioactive lume designation serve as constant reminders that this isn't simply styled to look military; it's built from actual military specifications that remain in use today.
For collectors and enthusiasts seeking something beyond the typical black-dial dive watch, the Arctic Radar offers visual distinction while maintaining the functionality and heritage that make CWC's military divers noteworthy. The white dial won't suit every situation or every taste, but it provides an option for those wanting their timepiece to stand apart from the crowd of near-identical black dive watches flooding the market.
The relationship between CWC and the British military shows no signs of ending, meaning these civilian versions benefit from ongoing refinement driven by actual field use and military feedback. That's a level of real-world testing and validation that few watch brands can claim.
