The watch world in 2025 is buzzing with fresh releases that blend cutting-edge technology with timeless craftsmanship. From innovative complications to striking aesthetics, the latest offerings from Hautlence, Armin Strom, and Lang & Heyne are turning heads at events like Geneva Watch Days. These timepieces aren’t just about telling time—they’re statements of individuality, engineering prowess, and artistic vision. Here’s an in-depth look at three standout watches that are redefining luxury horology this year.
Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 & 5: A Modern Take on a Classic Complication
Image credit: Hautlence/Monochrome Watches
Hautlence has been shaking up the watch industry since 2004, known for its bold, unconventional designs and creative time displays. Now part of the MELB Holding Group and sharing space with H. Moser & Cie. in Schaffhausen, the brand continues to push boundaries. At Geneva Watch Days 2025, Hautlence unveiled the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and Series 5, two limited-edition timepieces that combine their signature wandering hours with a flying tourbillon and eye-catching 3D-printed dials.
The Vagabonde series has always been about reimagining how time is displayed. The wandering hours complication, which dates back to the 17th century, gets a futuristic twist here. Three blue rotating satellites glide beneath a sapphire crystal disc, with the current hour appearing in an aperture above the central axis. The pointed tip of the hour marker aligns with the minute track on the disc, which is fitted with Globolight numerals—a ceramic compound infused with Super-LumiNova for enhanced legibility in low light. At 6 o’clock, a one-minute flying tourbillon spins in an open bar-shaped carriage, adding a mesmerizing kinetic element to the dial.
What sets these watches apart are their dials. The Series 4 features a 3D-printed mosaic of blue cubes, creating a structured, almost architectural look. The Series 5, on the other hand, sports an organic, web-like pattern in blue PVD coating, set against a white Super-LumiNova background that glows vividly in the dark. These dials, crafted using advanced 3D printing, showcase Hautlence’s commitment to blending art and technology. The effect is a dial that shifts and catches light differently with every glance, making each moment visually engaging.
The watches are housed in Hautlence’s iconic retro TV-shaped case, measuring 50.8mm in diameter, 43mm in length, and 12.2mm in thickness (including the sapphire crystal). Despite its substantial size, the stainless steel case, coated in midnight-blue PVD, feels more manageable thanks to a 2022 redesign that introduced an integrated white rubber strap. This strap flows seamlessly into the case, enhancing comfort and giving the watch a modern, streamlined silhouette. A bumper on the left side and crown guards on the right ensure durability, with water resistance up to 100 meters—a practical touch for such a high-concept piece.
Powering the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and 5 is the D30 calibre, a modified version of H. Moser & Cie.’s HMC200 automatic movement with a planetary display crafted by Hautlence. With 217 components and 39 jewels, the movement features a bidirectional pawl-winding system and a 72-hour power reserve. The flying tourbillon is equipped with a double hairspring, produced by Precision Engineering AG, ensuring precision and stability. The movement’s beauty is visible through a circular sapphire caseback, revealing meticulous finishing and engineering.
Both the Series 4 (reference AD30-ST02) and Series 5 (reference AD30-ST03) are limited to just 28 pieces each, making them highly exclusive. Priced at CHF 59,000, these watches are aimed at collectors who appreciate avant-garde design and technical sophistication. For those looking to make a bold statement, the Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and 5 deliver a perfect blend of heritage and innovation.
Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and 5: Technical Specifications
Image credit: Hautlence/Monochrome Watches
Case
- Dimensions: 50.8mm diameter x 43mm length x 12.2mm thickness (including sapphire crystal)
- Material: Stainless steel with midnight-blue PVD coating, brushed and polished
- Crown: Engraved Hautlence logo with white rubber ring
- Crystal: Extra-hard bevelled sapphire with anti-reflective treatment (front), round sapphire glass (caseback)
- Features: Bumper on left side, crown guards on right
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
Dial
- Series 4: Blue PVD 3D-printed cubic pattern
- Series 5: Blue PVD 3D-printed organic web-like pattern with white Super-LumiNova negative space
- Display: Wandering hours (blue) below rotating minutes on suspended sapphire crystal disc with Globolight numerals and rings
- Tourbillon: One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with open bar-shaped carriage
Movement
- Calibre: D30 (base Moser HMC200 automatic with planetary display by Hautlence)
- Components: 217 parts, 39 jewels
- Winding: Bidirectional pawl-winding mechanism
- Power Reserve: 72 hours
- Hairspring: Double hairspring by Precision Engineering AG
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Strap
- Material: Integrated white rubber
- Clasp: Steel pin buckle with midnight-blue PVD coating
Availability
- References: AD30-ST02 (Series 4), AD30-ST03 (Series 5)
- Production: Limited edition of 28 pieces each
- Price: CHF 59,000
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Tremblage: A Traveler’s Masterpiece
Image credit: Armin Strom/Monochrome Watches
For those who frequently cross time zones, a reliable GMT watch is a must. Armin Strom takes this practical complication to new heights with the Dual Time GMT Resonance Tremblage, a limited-edition collaboration with Revolution to mark the magazine’s 20th anniversary. This watch, limited to just five pieces, combines the brand’s groundbreaking resonance technology with a stunning hand-engraved dial, making it both a technical marvel and a work of art.
The concept of resonance, first observed by Christiaan Huygens in 1665, involves two independent oscillators synchronizing their movements. Armin Strom’s co-founder, Claude Greisler, modernized this idea in 2016 with the Mirrored Force Resonance watch, using a patented clutch spring to connect twin oscillators. The Dual Time GMT Resonance, introduced in 2025, applies this technology to a GMT complication, offering two independent time displays for different time zones. Each display has its own crown for setting hours and minutes, accommodating even unconventional time offsets like 30 or 45 minutes.
The watch’s 39mm stainless steel case is sleek and understated, with a slim 9.05mm thickness and a 44.5mm lug-to-lug measurement. Polished and brushed surfaces add a refined touch, while sapphire crystals on both the front and back (with anti-reflective coating) ensure clear views of the dial and movement. With 50 meters of water resistance, it’s practical for everyday wear, whether you’re in a boardroom or a beachside café.
The dial is where this watch truly shines. Crafted by master engraver Juliane Gfeller, the two solid gold dials feature a tremblage finish—a micro-etched pattern that gives the surface a shimmering, almost trembling effect. The frosted gold baseplate contrasts with snailed chapter rings and polished, faceted indices. Blackened steel day/night indicators at the base of each dial, mounted on 24-hour wheels, add functionality and visual depth. A three-dimensional ratchet wheel, supported by a circular-grained bridge, sits between the dials, with mirror-polished balance bridges and the resonance clutch spring at noon completing the symmetrical layout.
The calibre ARF22, a manual-winding movement, powers this intricate display. With 231 parts and 40 jewels, it operates at 3.5 Hz and offers a 42-hour power reserve. Twin barrels ensure consistent energy delivery, while the openworked black-polished steel bridges, inspired by marine chronometers, reveal laser-engraved specifications. The right crown handles winding and setting one dial, while the left crown adjusts the other, making it intuitive for travelers.
Paired with a brown textured calfskin strap and a stainless steel pin buckle, the Dual Time GMT Resonance Tremblage is a collector’s dream. Priced at CHF 100,000 (excluding taxes), it’s available exclusively on revolutionwatch.com starting September 2, 2025. For those who value precision, exclusivity, and craftsmanship, this watch is a rare opportunity to own a piece of horological history.
Armin Strom x Revolution Dual Time GMT Resonance Tremblage: Technical Specifications
Image credit: Armin Strom/Monochrome Watches
Case
- Dimensions: 39mm diameter x 9.05mm thickness x 44.5mm lug-to-lug
- Material: Stainless steel, polished and brushed
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective treatment (front and back)
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Dial
- Design: Exposed balance wheels at noon with patented resonance clutch spring, mirror-polished balance bridge and clutch
- Baseplate: Frosted gold
- Dials: Two solid gold dials with handmade tremblage finish, snailed chapter rings, polished baton indices
- Indicators: Blackened steel and polished day/night discs
- Hands: Faceted, rhodium-plated
- Additional: Ratchet wheel at 6 o’clock
Movement
- Calibre: Armin Strom ARF22, manual winding
- Dimensions: 34.15mm x 4.92mm
- Frequency: 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz)
- Power Reserve: 42 hours
- Components: 231 parts, 40 jewels
- Features: Two independent regulating systems with resonance clutch spring, two independent time displays (hours, minutes, day/night)
Strap
- Material: Brown textured calfskin
- Clasp: Stainless steel pin buckle
Availability
- Production: Limited edition of 5 pieces
- Availability: From September 2, 2025, at 11:00 p.m. SGT / 11:00 a.m. EST / 5:00 p.m. CET on revolutionwatch.com
- Price: CHF 100,000 (excl. taxes)
Lang & Heyne Hektor II: A Unique Spin on the Luxury Sports Watch
Image credit: Lang & Heyne/Monochrome Watches
Dresden-based Lang & Heyne has long been celebrated for its classic, intricately decorated timepieces, but in 2021, the brand ventured into the competitive world of luxury sports watches with the Hektor. The Hektor II, released in 2025, builds on that foundation with refined design and movement upgrades, offering a distinctive alternative to mainstream sports watches.
The Hektor II stands out with its unconventional design. Unlike the angular, ultra-thin sports watches dominating the market, it embraces softer, more organic lines. The 40mm stainless steel case, with a 10.95mm thickness, features a domed bezel, an onion-shaped crown, and curved lateral guards, giving it a baroque-inspired aesthetic that ties back to Lang & Heyne’s traditional roots. The triple-lug design seamlessly integrates with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet, which combines brushed and polished surfaces for a sophisticated look. A butterfly folding clasp secures the bracelet, though the lack of micro-adjustment or alternative strap options is a minor drawback. With 50 meters of water resistance, it’s suitable for casual wear but not deep diving.
The dial is a study in texture and personality. Now in a galvanic black finish (a shift from the blue, grey, and green of the original Hektor), it features a petticoat-inspired pattern at the center and a grooved chapter ring for depth. The standout element is the petticoat-shaped cutout at 6 o’clock, which reveals part of the movement’s wheels, mimicking the bridge design on the back. Applied hour markers and stylized arrow-shaped hands, both filled with Super-LumiNova, ensure legibility, while a gold-colored seconds hand adds a touch of warmth. The overall effect is bold yet refined, perfect for those who want a watch that stands out without shouting.
The heart of the Hektor II is the updated LH 33.2-2 calibre, crafted by Uhren-Werke-Dresden, a sister company. This hand-wound movement, a rarity in the sports watch category, features a new bridge geometry, a full central seconds bridge, and longer finger bridges for the gear train. A free-sprung eccentric balance with six inertia weights improves timekeeping precision, while a dual Incafix bearing for the escape wheel reduces friction. The movement, made of rhodium-plated brass with a German silver gear train and mainspring barrel, operates at 3 Hz and offers a 46-hour power reserve. Visible through a sapphire caseback, the bridges are bevelled and straight-brushed, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship.
Limited to 99 pieces, the Hektor II is priced at EUR 19,999 (excluding taxes), positioning it competitively against other independent sports watches like the Czapek Antarctique or H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner. It’s a watch for those who appreciate individuality and German watchmaking heritage, offering a refreshing departure from the crowded sports watch market.
Lang & Heyne Hektor II: Technical Specifications
Image credit: Lang & Heyne/Monochrome Watches
Case
- Dimensions: 40mm diameter x 10.95mm thickness
- Material: Stainless steel, polished and brushed
- Design: Triple-lug design, onion-shaped crown with guards
- Crystal: Sapphire with anti-reflective coating (front), sapphire caseback
- Water Resistance: 50 meters
Dial
- Color: Galvanic black with shiny bevels
- Design: Petticoat pattern in the center, grooved chapter ring
- Cutout: Petticoat-shaped cock cutout at 6 o’clock revealing movement
- Markers: Applied markers with Super-LumiNova
- Hands: Stylized arrow-shaped hands with Super-LumiNova, gold-colored seconds hand
Movement
- Calibre: LH 33.2-2 (by Uhren-Werke-Dresden)
- Type: Hand-wound
- Components: 22 jewels
- Dimensions: 33mm x 4.4mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)
- Power Reserve: 46 hours
- Features: Free-sprung eccentric balance with six inertia weights, flat hairspring, German silver gear train, dual Incafix bearing
- Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking)
Bracelet
- Design: Integrated 5-link stainless steel, polished and brushed
- Clasp: Butterfly folding clasp
Availability
- Production: Limited edition of 99 pieces
- Price: EUR 19,999 (excl. taxes)
Why These Watches Matter in 2025
The Hautlence Vagabonde Tourbillon Series 4 and 5, Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Tremblage, and Lang & Heyne Hektor II represent the pinnacle of independent watchmaking in 2025. Each brand brings something unique to the table: Hautlence with its futuristic dials and kinetic complications, Armin Strom with its groundbreaking resonance technology, and Lang & Heyne with its blend of German tradition and modern flair. These watches aren’t just timekeepers—they’re conversation starters, engineered to impress and built to last.
For collectors and enthusiasts, these releases offer a chance to own a piece of horological innovation. Whether you’re drawn to the artistic dials of the Vagabonde, the technical mastery of the GMT Resonance, or the distinctive charm of the Hektor II, there’s something here for those who value craftsmanship and individuality. As the watch industry continues to evolve, these timepieces prove that independent brands are leading the charge with bold designs and uncompromising quality.
For more details, visit hautlence.com, arminstrom.com, or lang-und-heyne.de.
Information/images sourced from the brands and Monochrome Watches
