12 Cold-Weather Camping Mistakes That Ruin a Trip

Cold Camping Punishes Small Errors

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Camping in summer forgives a lot, and camping in cold weather forgives almost nothing. A leaky pad, a damp sock or a half-empty stomach can turn a pleasant night into a miserable one by two in the morning. The cold works through slow, compounding effects: heat leaks into the ground, sweat chills on the skin, water freezes in bottles, and batteries lose capacity. The upside is that cold camping, once you get it right, is quiet, bug-free and beautiful, with empty campgrounds and clear night skies. Most experienced winter campers say that the mistakes are almost always about gear choices and habits, not toughness. The twelve problems below come up again and again in winter camping advice from guides, retailers and veteran campers. Each has a straightforward fix, and few cost much. Start with a trip close to the car, in a place you know, and keep an easy retreat plan. Check the forecast for the overnight low, wind and any precipitation, and prepare for the worst night in the forecast range.

Trusting the Number on the Sleeping Bag

Sleeping bag temperature ratings are one of the most misunderstood numbers in camping. Under the standard European testing system, bags have a comfort rating, which is the temperature at which a cold sleeper should stay comfortable, and a limit rating, which is the temperature at which an average sleeper stays warm but curled up. Many brands advertise the lower number, so a bag listed as 20 degrees may only be comfortable at 30 or so. A common rule is to choose a bag rated about 10 degrees lower than the lowest night temperature you expect. Fit also matters: a bag that is too big wastes heat, while one that is too tight compresses the insulation. Keep the bag dry, since wet down loses most of its loft, and fluff it before use. A liner adds a few degrees and keeps the bag clean. Eat a snack and warm up before climbing in, and wear a dry hat. If you run cold, buy a bag rated colder than you think you need.

Skimping on the Sleeping Pad

The ground steals more heat than the air does, and a thin summer pad leaves you cold no matter how good the bag is. Insulation below you is measured by R-value, a number that shows resistance to heat flow. Many gear makers suggest an R-value of about 4 or higher for winter camping, and 5 or more for temperatures well below freezing. If you need a warmer pad, you can stack two: a closed-cell foam pad under an inflatable one adds insulation and protects against punctures. Foam also works as a backup if the inflatable fails. Insulation from a bag compresses under your body, so the pad does most of the work beneath you. In snow, put a ground sheet or footprint under the tent to protect against moisture. Don't use air mattresses without insulation, since they circulate cold air and lose heat. Test your pad at home for leaks, and carry a repair kit. Sleeping pads also make a good seat in camp.

Wearing Cotton

Cotton is comfortable in a living room and dangerous in the cold. It absorbs moisture, holds it against the skin and dries slowly, and wet fabric conducts heat away from the body much faster than dry fabric. Jeans, cotton hoodies and cotton socks are classic mistakes that leave campers chilled. Outdoor guides repeat the rule that cotton kills, meaning it contributes to hypothermia. Build a layering system from synthetic or merino wool materials. A base layer wicks sweat away, a mid layer such as fleece or a light down jacket traps heat, and an outer shell blocks wind and precipitation. Keep a spare dry set of base layers and socks to sleep in, and never sleep in the clothes you wore while hiking or cooking. Wool socks should be thick but not tight, since tight socks cut circulation. Hats, gloves and a neck gaiter help regulate heat quickly. Bring an extra insulated jacket, as heat loss at camp is faster when you stop moving.

Sweating Through Your Layers

The second clothing mistake is overdressing for the hike. A camper bundled in a big parka sweats on the trail, then chills as soon as they stop. Dampness inside layers is a leading cause of cold injuries. The fix is to start cold: dress a little light when you begin hiking, so that you are slightly chilly for the first ten minutes. Open zippers, remove hats and gloves and adjust vents to control temperature before you start sweating. When you stop, add a puffy jacket right away, before you cool down. Choose breathable layers, and avoid waterproof shells unless it is raining or snowing, because they trap moisture. Hang damp clothing in the tent vestibule or inside your bag to dry using body heat. Carry a dry base layer for camp. Feet matter, too: change into dry socks at camp and keep the pair you hiked in against your body to dry. Drink water regularly, since dehydration makes it harder to stay warm.

Cooking Inside the Tent

A warm tent and a hot meal are tempting on a cold night, but cooking inside a tent is one of the most dangerous mistakes in winter camping. Stoves produce carbon monoxide, a colorless, odorless gas that can kill quickly in a closed space, and a tent is highly flammable. Nylon can melt or catch fire from a stove flare-up, and a tipped pot can scald you and soak your gear. Outdoor guides advise cooking in the open or in the vestibule with the door open and plenty of ventilation, and never leaving a stove unattended. In deep snow, dig a kitchen pit with a wind wall to protect the stove and give you a place to stand. Use a stable base such as a flat board or a piece of foam under the stove. Never use a charcoal grill or a propane heater in a tent. Carry a carbon monoxide alarm if you use any fuel burning device. Let the stove cool completely before packing it.

Sealing the Tent Up Tight

A tight tent feels warm, but it fills with moisture from your breath. The average person exhales a significant amount of water vapor overnight, and in cold weather that vapor condenses on the tent walls and freezes into frost. When the sun warms the tent or the walls shake, the frost rains down onto your bag and gear. Condensation is one of the leading complaints of winter campers, and in a double-wall tent, venting is key. Open the top vents and the door slightly even on a cold night, which lets moist air escape. Avoid breathing into your sleeping bag, which wets the insulation. Do not bring wet gear and snow into the tent, and brush off boots and clothes before entering. Choose a four-season tent if you expect heavy snow or wind, with sturdy poles and snow flaps. Pitch the tent so the door faces away from the wind. Wipe the walls with a small towel in the morning, and dry the tent as soon as possible.

Pitching in the Coldest Spot on the Map

Cold air flows downhill and pools in low spots, which means a flat meadow in a valley bottom can be many degrees colder than a spot only 50 feet higher. Campers who choose the flattest, most convenient area can end up in a cold sink with frost and no wind protection. Instead, look for a site partway up a slope, in a sheltered area behind trees or rocks, with a clear view of where the sun will rise to warm the camp in the morning. Avoid drainage channels, dry creek beds and low hollows. Check above you for dead branches, called widowmakers, and for avalanche terrain or cornices. In snow, stomp down the site with snowshoes and let it set for a few minutes before pitching, which creates a firm platform. Build a snow wall or use natural barriers to block the wind, and orient the tent to reduce exposure. Avoid camping directly under heavy snow-laden trees, which can dump loads on the tent.

Letting Water Freeze

Water that freezes in the bottle is water you cannot drink, and dehydration makes it harder to stay warm. Wide-mouth bottles freeze from the top down, and a frozen lid is hard to open. Store bottles upside down so the ice forms at the bottom first, leaving liquid water near the cap. Insulated sleeves help, and so does keeping bottles inside your pack close to your body, or in your sleeping bag overnight. Avoid hydration bladders with long tubes in the cold, since the tube and bite valve freeze quickly, unless you blow air back into them after each sip and insulate them. Start the day with a warm bottle filled with hot water, and use a thermos for tea and soup. If you rely on melting snow, add some liquid water to the pot first to avoid scorching, and plan extra fuel. Treat water from streams as usual, since filters can crack if they freeze, so keep them in a warm pocket.

Using the Wrong Stove Fuel

Not all stove fuel works in the cold. Canister stoves use pressurized isobutane, propane or blends, and as the temperature falls, the pressure inside the canister drops, so the flame weakens or dies. Pure butane stops vaporizing at around freezing, while isobutane works down to roughly 10 degrees Fahrenheit, and propane works well below that. A winter mix with a higher propane share performs better. Keep the canister warm by storing it in your jacket or sleeping bag, and warm it with your hands before use. Insulating the canister from the snow with a foam pad helps. Liquid fuel stoves that burn white gas are the standard for deep cold because the fuel stays liquid and you can pressurize the bottle by pumping. They need more practice and maintenance. Always carry a backup lighter, matches and a small fire starter, and extra fuel since you will burn more melting snow and heating water. Practice lighting the stove at home before the trip.

Letting the Batteries Die

Cold weather shrinks battery capacity quickly, and a headlamp that lasts all week in summer can fade in an hour at 10 degrees. Phones are the same, shutting down at low charge even if the screen still shows power. Keep spare batteries and electronics in an inside pocket or at the foot of your sleeping bag, where body heat keeps them warm. Use lithium batteries in headlamps and GPS units, since lithium performs better in the cold than alkaline. Carry a power bank and keep it warm, and put your phone in airplane mode to save power. Bring a backup light, and a paper map and compass, in case electronics fail. Rechargeable lithium-ion cells in cameras and headlamps may need to be warmed before use, and you should keep them in an insulated pouch. Download maps offline, since cell service is spotty. Charge everything before leaving, and plan to use electronics sparingly. In cold snaps, avoid charging a battery that is still frozen, since that can damage it.

Skipping Food and Hot Drinks

The body generates heat by burning calories, and undereating in the cold is a recipe for a bad night. Winter campers typically need more calories than in summer, since the body uses extra energy to stay warm. Eat a calorie-dense dinner of fats and carbohydrates, and have a snack right before bed to give your body fuel for the night. Many campers keep a handful of nuts, cheese or chocolate in their sleeping bag within reach. Start the morning with a hot breakfast, which helps warm the core and restores energy. Hot drinks such as tea, cocoa and broth add warmth and hydration. Avoid too much alcohol, which dilates blood vessels and increases heat loss even though it feels warming. Cold weather also dulls thirst, so drink regularly even if you do not feel thirsty. Pack food that does not freeze solid, like energy bars that can be chewed in cold, or keep them in an inside pocket until you need them.

Underestimating How Short the Day Is

In deep winter, there may be only eight or nine hours of usable daylight, and darkness arrives quickly. Campers who plan summer-length hiking days find themselves setting up camp in the dark with numb fingers, which is when mistakes happen. Plan shorter distances, and aim to be at camp with at least an hour of light left. Work out the sunrise and sunset times before you go, and build a schedule with margins for slower travel in snow. Pack a headlamp with fresh batteries and a backup. Practice pitching your tent at home so you can do it with gloves on. Keep a retreat plan and share your route, expected return and the nearest bailout with someone at home. Know the signs of hypothermia, including shivering, slurred speech and clumsy movements, and know that frostbite starts with numb, waxy skin. If conditions worsen, turn back early, since the cold is a patient opponent and it gets worse after dark.

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