Top Beginner Rock Climbing Crags in the US
Top Beginner Rock Climbing Crags in the US
Ready to get into rock climbing but not sure where to start? If you're looking to hit the crags for the first time, you want spots that are chill, safe, and won't make you feel like you're scaling Everest. These places are perfect for newbies, with easy routes, solid rock, and views that make the sweat worth it. Whether you're just getting your hands chalky or trying to impress your buddies, here’s a list of the best beginner-friendly climbing spots across the States.
Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
This spot’s a gem just outside Salt Lake City. Big Cottonwood Canyon has a ton of beginner routes, like 5.6 to 5.8 sport climbs, that are perfect for getting the hang of things. The granite’s grippy, and the routes are short enough you won’t be gassed halfway up. Plus, the scenery’s killer—think pine trees and mountain vibes. I took my first outdoor climb here a few years back, and man, clipping that first bolt felt like winning the Super Bowl. Just watch for afternoon shade to keep it comfy.
Red River Gorge, Kentucky
Red River Gorge, or “the Red,” is a must for any climber. It’s got sandstone cliffs with routes like Boilerplate (5.8) that are forgiving for new guys. The holds are juggy, and the bolts are close, so you’re not freaking out about falling. The vibe’s laid-back, with campgrounds nearby for chilling after a session. Bring some beers and soak in the forest views—you’ll feel like a badass just being there.
Smith Rock State Park, Oregon
Smith Rock’s the real deal, known as the birthplace of sport climbing in the US. For beginners, Morning Glory Wall has routes like 5 and 9 Gallon Buckets (5.8-5.9) that are fun and not too sketchy. The volcanic tuff gives you solid grips, and the views of the Crooked River are straight-up epic. It’s a bit of a trek to get there, but once you’re clipping chains with that desert sun hitting you, it’s worth every mile.
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, Arkansas
This spot’s a hidden gem in the Ozarks. Horseshoe Canyon’s got loads of moderate sport routes, many with permadraws, so you don’t gotta mess with gear too much. Routes like Green Goblin (5.7) are perfect for building confidence. The ranch vibe’s cool, with camping and even some horseback riding if you’re feeling fancy. It’s a great spot to bring the crew and make a weekend out of it.
Yonah Mountain, Georgia
Yonah Mountain’s a solid pick for Southern boys looking to climb. This granite dome’s got easy access and beginner routes like 5.6 slabs that feel more like a hike than a climb. The Army uses it for Ranger training, so you know it’s legit but still doable. The short approach means you’re not huffing and puffing before you even start. Plus, the view from the top’s perfect for cracking a cold one and soaking it all in.
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